
Hamburger Speck (Hamburg Sugar Foam Candy)
Description
Layered sugar-foam candy in the Hamburg city colours of red and white, cut into slabs and rolled in icing sugar and starch. The name comes from the shape, which is reminiscent of streaky bacon – there is no bacon in it whatsoever.
Directions
✓ researched- 1
Mix icing sugar and cornstarch and pass them through a sieve. Brush a rectangular tin (about 20 × 25 cm) thinly with oil and dust it generously with the mixture; keep the rest for later.
⏱️ approx. 10 min - 2
Stir the powdered gelatine into eight tablespoons of cold water and let it swell. Slit the vanilla pods lengthways, scrape out the seeds and mix them with a teaspoon of water.
⏱️ approx. 10 min💡 Tip: Less water with the gelatine gives a firmer candy, more water a fluffier one.
- 3
Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until very stiff. The bowl must be completely free of grease or the whites will not set firm.
⏱️ approx. 6 min - 4
Bring the sugar to the boil with 250 millilitres of water, add the syrup and let it boil hard for two minutes – to 115 °C on a thermometer. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the swollen gelatine and the vanilla seeds until everything has dissolved clear.
⏱️ approx. 12 min - 5
Pour the hot sugar syrup into the beaten egg white in a thin stream, whisking continuously. Keep beating until the mass has cooled and is thick and glossy – that takes a good ten minutes.
⏱️ approx. 12 min - 6
Take off half the mass and leave it white – these are the pale layers. Fill the tin halfway with it and smooth the surface.
⏱️ approx. 5 min - 7
Colour the second half strongly with red food colouring and pour it swiftly over the white layer. For the exact Hamburg colours, use a deep carmine red.
⏱️ approx. 5 min💡 Tip: For the Heligoland version, colour one third red, leave one third white and make one third green.
- 8
Let the tin set for about three hours at room temperature – not in the fridge, where the sugar foam draws moisture.
⏱️ approx. 180 min - 9
Turn out the set slab, cut it with a large knife dipped in hot water into strips and then into bacon-like slices, and roll every cut surface in the remaining starch and icing sugar mixture. Store airtight and dry.
⏱️ approx. 15 min
📜 Origin & History
Hamburger Speck is a sugar-foam confection traditionally offered in the Hamburg state colours red and white, but also in yellow and pink. It owes its name purely to its appearance: the layered slabs are reminiscent of streaky bacon, which is what "durchwachsener Speck" means in German. The sweet is also known as Helgolänner Speck or Helgoländer Schnitten, and in that guise it is coloured red, white and green – the colours of Heligoland. The name is a source of confusion abroad and even inside the German-speaking world: in Austrian cooking Hamburger Speck does not mean a sweet at all, but genuine streaky smoked bacon. The confection is a fairground and market classic in northern Germany, sold cut from large blocks, and it appears in post-war German literature as a symbol of returning abundance – in the memoir novel Entbehrung – Hunger – Trümmer – aber ich habe überlebt! it plays a prominent part.
🗺️ Where is Hamburger Speck cooked?
Hamburg · Hamburg
Main regionThe confection carries Hamburg's state colours: a white central square between two red outer layers. The name comes from the slab shape, which recalls streaky bacon. It is sold in northern German food retail and in sweet shops, usually as cut pieces rolled in icing sugar and starch.
More from Hamburg →Helgoland · Schleswig-Holstein
The same sweet in red, white and green – the colours of Heligoland – is called Helgolänner Speck or Helgoländer Schnitten. The island belongs to Schleswig-Holstein; this version is sold mainly there and along the North Sea coast.
More from Helgoland →Niedersachsen · Niedersachsen
Part of the production sits just south of the city line: the Bierbaum family in Seevetal boils the sugar by hand in copper kettles over an open fire and builds up the slabs over several days – sugar, fruit jelly, sugar foam, jelly again, sugar again. Some 20 tonnes of sugar there become about 14 tonnes of Hamburger Speck a year in 16 flavours.
More from Niedersachsen →🌿 Regional variants
Red and white Hamburg version (Hamburg)
The basic version in the city's colours: a white central square between two red layers, recalling streaky bacon when cut.
Helgolänner Speck (Helgoland)
Also called Helgoländer Schnitten: the same mixture, but in red, white and green after the colours of the island of Heligoland.
Yellow and pink slabs (Hamburg)
Besides red and white, yellow and pink layers are common. The colour sequence then follows the flavour rather than any coat of arms.
Artisanal version with fruit jelly (Niedersachsen)
In the artisanal workshop sugar, fruit jelly and sugar foam alternate; the slab grows over several days. The home version, by contrast, pours two coloured foam layers of sugar, syrup, egg white and gelatine into a mould and turns them out after about three hours.
🍷 What goes with it?
Hamburger Speck is a sweet for the hand: cut into cubes or slices, straight from the bag, with coffee or black tea. Keep any leftovers dry and airtight – in damp air the icing sugar and starch come off the cut faces and the pieces stick back together. It is not used on cakes or in desserts.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is there really no bacon in Hamburger Speck?
Not a gram. The name comes solely from the layered shape, which resembles streaky bacon. Careful in Austria, though: there "Hamburger Speck" really does mean streaky smoked bacon and not a sweet at all.
How does it differ from marshmallows?
The base is related – sugar foam with gelatine. But Hamburger Speck is poured into slabs, built up in two or three coloured layers and cut into slices rather than piped, and it is denser and firmer than the airy marshmallow.
Why is the candy rolled in starch and icing sugar?
Because the cut surfaces would otherwise stick and fuse together within hours. The mixture draws off residual moisture and keeps the pieces separate – which is why shop-bought Hamburger Speck always looks lightly dusted.
Where do the colours of Hamburger Speck come from?
From Hamburg's flag: red and white, arranged as a white central square between two red layers. The red, white and green version carries the colours of Heligoland and is called Helgolänner Speck or Helgoländer Schnitten. Yellow and pink slabs are common too – there the colour sequence follows the flavour rather than any coat of arms.
Where is Hamburger Speck made?
In Seevetal south of Hamburg, among other places: the Bierbaum family boils the sugar there by hand in copper kettles over an open fire and layers fruit jelly and sugar foam over several days. Some 20 tonnes of sugar become about 14 tonnes of Hamburger Speck a year in 16 flavours. The workshop does not release its recipe.
Is Hamburger Speck vegetarian?
As a rule, no. The foam is set with gelatine, usually of porcine origin – including in the version given here. Anyone who needs to watch out should read the ingredient list or ask in the shop. The name misleads in the other direction as well: there is no bacon in the sweet.
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Ingredients
verified- sugar380 g
- Syrup60 g
- Water330 ml
- Gelatin20 g
- Egg white70 g
- Powdered sugar100 g
- Cornstarch100 g
- vanilla pod4 g
- Food coloring
- Vegetable oil
- salt
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