Palatinate Schweinepfeffer (Pork in Dark Blood-Thickened Sauce)
Description
Pieces of pork neck simmered until tender with onion, bay leaf, celeriac, cloves and peppercorns, then served in a dark roux sauce sharpened with vinegar and enriched with pig's blood and egg yolk. An old dish of the Palatinate, eaten with sauerkraut and farmhouse bread.
Directions
✓ researched- 1
Cut the pork neck into 8 portion-sized pieces, put them in a pot, cover with boiling water and let it boil vigorously for 10 minutes. Pour off the water.
⏱️ approx. 10 min💡 Tip: This is how the Palatinate cookbook of 1858 does it: the first water carries away the scum, so the sauce stays cleaner.
- 2
Just cover the meat with fresh hot water. Halve two onions, roughly dice the celeriac and add them with the bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns and salt. Cover and simmer over low heat for about 1½ hours until the meat is tender. Skim off the fat that rises to the top from time to time.
⏱️ approx. 90 min💡 Tip: Skimming is expressly required by the old recipe – pork neck is marbled, otherwise the sauce becomes too fatty.
- 3
Lift out the meat and keep it warm, covered. Strain the broth through a sieve and measure 750 ml of it.
⏱️ approx. 5 min - 4
For the roux, melt the butter in a pan, add the flour and toast it, stirring constantly, until it is a deep brown. Finely dice the third onion and fry it along with the roux without letting anything burn.
⏱️ approx. 10 min💡 Tip: The dark colour of the sauce comes from the toasted roux – the browner the flour, the more robust the "Pfeffer".
- 5
Gradually stir the hot broth into the roux, add the vinegar and let the sauce simmer gently for 10 minutes. Then press it through a fine sieve over the meat and let everything steep for a few more minutes.
⏱️ approx. 15 min - 6
Take the pot off the heat. Whisk the pig's blood with the egg yolk, fold it into the sauce and swirl the pot until everything is hot again – the sauce must not boil any more. Season with salt and ground pepper.
⏱️ approx. 5 min💡 Tip: If the sauce boils after being thickened, the blood and yolk curdle and it turns grainy. Without blood the Pfeffer is already finished after step 5 – the old cookbook calls the blood explicitly a refinement for special occasions.
- 7
Serve the Schweinepfeffer with hot sauerkraut and slices of farmhouse bread, spooning the sauce generously over the meat.
💡 Tip: Dumplings and red cabbage are also classic; in the Palatinate Schweinepfeffer is moreover eaten as a savoury partner to Dampfnudeln.
📜 Origin & History
Schweinepfeffer belongs to the old family of German "Pfeffer" dishes. The word does not refer to the spice alone but to a ragout in a strongly seasoned, thickened sauce – in the Middle Ages called "ius piperatum"; its relatives are Hasenpfeffer (jugged hare), goose Pfeffer and venison Pfeffer. For the Palatinate the dish is documented in black and white: the "Pfälzer Kochbuch" by Anna Bergner, published in Mannheim in 1858 with 1,002 recipes, lists the "Schweine-Pfeffer" as recipe no. 328. About two pounds of pork from the neck ("Kammstück") are cooked like the hare Pfeffer – with onions, bay leaf, celeriac, cloves and peppercorns until tender – the broth is bound with a browned flour roux and a little vinegar, and "for special occasions" the sauce is finished with blood and an egg yolk, which must no longer boil. Besides the Palatinate, Schweinepfeffer is also known in Rhenish Hesse and in Switzerland. In Palatinate cooking it is moreover one of the savoury partners of the Dampfnudel with its salty crust, alongside potato soup and goulash.
🗺️ Where is Pfälzer Schweinepfeffer cooked?
Pfalz · Rheinland-Pfalz
Main regionFrequently Asked Questions
Why is the dish called "Pfeffer" (pepper)?
"Pfeffer" is an old culinary term for a ragout in a sharply seasoned, thickened sauce, called "ius piperatum" in the Middle Ages. Hasenpfeffer, goose Pfeffer and venison Pfeffer are named the same way.
Where do I get pig's blood – and can I do without it?
Fresh pig's blood is available from the butcher; ordering ahead is best. You can also leave it out: the Palatinate cookbook of 1858 already calls the Pfeffer "finished and very good" before the blood is added. Modern recipes also replace the blood with browned flour or a little grated dark chocolate.
Isn't Schweinepfeffer marinated in red wine?
Many modern recipes marinate meat from the neck or shoulder for one or two days in vinegar or wine with onions, cloves, pepper and bay leaf and then braise it in red wine. This recipe follows the older Palatinate version of 1858, in which the meat is cooked in spiced broth and the sauce is bound with a roux and vinegar.
What goes with it?
Sauerkraut is the typical side for meat dishes in the Palatinate, together with farmhouse bread. Dumplings and red cabbage are also common. In the Palatinate Schweinepfeffer is also eaten with salt-crusted Dampfnudeln.
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Ingredients
verified- Pork neck1 kg
- Water1.5 l
- onion250 g
- Celeriac150 g
- Bay leaf
- Clove
- Peppercorns
- salt2 tsp
- Butter50 g
- Flour40 g
- Red wine vinegar3 tbsp
- Pig's blood3 tbsp
- Egg yolk18 g
- pepper
- Sauerkraut600 g
- Farmhouse bread200 g
Nutrition per serving
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